LES LESTON×Jimba’s Denim Coverall Jacket

As a shirtmaker, there are certain elements of authentic denim workwear construction—such as traditional chain stitching—that we cannot reproduce in-house.

For this reason, we entrusted Jimba’s with the construction of this double-name denim coverall jacket, using a pattern developed by LES LESTON.

While remaining faithful to the traditions of denim workwear, the jacket is not intended to simply recreate vintage garments. Different thread weights are used throughout the construction to create greater depth and character, while the stitch pitch is set slightly finer than that typically found on denim garments.

The result retains the ruggedness of traditional workwear while introducing a more refined and sophisticated expression.

The pattern follows the principles of classic workwear, yet reflects our perspective as a dress shirtmaker—particularly in the way the collar stands and the shoulders sit naturally on the body. This is combined with raglan sleeves rooted in workwear, chosen for their practicality, functionality, and freedom of movement.

The fabric is a 13oz Japanese denim made from Mexican cotton, with a distinctive firmness and depth of texture. It is woven on rare traditional shuttle looms and rapier looms to intentionally create an irregular, dimensional surface.

The dyeing is carried out by a long-established Japanese dye house with more than 100 years of history. The indigo is dyed repeatedly at low temperatures, while the black undergoes a specialized dyeing process that requires maintaining high temperatures with steam.

These time-consuming processes give the denim a distinctive firmness and elegance, as well as a rich and unique character that will continue to develop beautifully with age.

By bringing together the strengths of patternmaking, sewing, and fabric, we set out to create a meaningful collaboration—something that could not have been achieved by a denim specialist or a shirtmaker alone.